Beach Cycle and Beach-face Slope on Sandy Beaches.

• OKAZAKI Sei-ichi

  JSPS, Institute of Geography, Graduate School of Science. Tohoku University

Bibliographic Information

Other Title

• ビーチサイクルにおけるビーチフェイス勾配の変化
• ビーチサイクル ニ オケル ビーチフェイス ノ コウバイ ノ ヘンカ

Abstract

The relationship between wave steepness and beach-face slope was examined as a process of beach cycle using the breaker-type classification diagram, which can be represented in terms of surf similarity parameter. According to the empirical relation derived by Sunamura (1984), beach-face slope becomes large when wave height is small and it becomes small when wave height is large. This relationship can be illustrated as counterclockwise loops on the breaker-type classification diagram. Surf similarity parameter is valid for examining the relation of beach cycle to breaker types, wave reflection coefficient and wave run-up height.

Journal

• Quarterly Journal of Geography

  Quarterly Journal of Geography 50 (2), 119-125, 1998

  The Tohoku Geographical Association

Keywords

• sandy beaches
• beach cycle
• surf similarity parameter
• beach-face slope
• wave steepness
• breaker types

Details

• CRID: 1390282679442330496
• NII Article ID: 10002695954
• NII Book ID: AN10379267
• DOI: 10.5190/tga.50.119
• ISSN: 18841252
• ISSN: 09167889
• NDL BIB ID: 4504644
• Web Site: https://ndlsearch.ndl.go.jp/books/R000000004-I4504644
• Text Lang: ja
• Data Source:
  • JaLC
  • NDL
  • Crossref
  • CiNii Articles
• Abstract License Flag: Disallowed