ビーチサイクルにおけるビーチフェイス勾配の変化

書誌事項

タイトル別名
  • Beach Cycle and Beach-face Slope on Sandy Beaches.
  • ビーチサイクル ニ オケル ビーチフェイス ノ コウバイ ノ ヘンカ

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抄録

The relationship between wave steepness and beach-face slope was examined as a process of beach cycle using the breaker-type classification diagram, which can be represented in terms of surf similarity parameter. According to the empirical relation derived by Sunamura (1984), beach-face slope becomes large when wave height is small and it becomes small when wave height is large. This relationship can be illustrated as counterclockwise loops on the breaker-type classification diagram. Surf similarity parameter is valid for examining the relation of beach cycle to breaker types, wave reflection coefficient and wave run-up height.

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