魚酱の起源と伝播 : 魚の発酵製品の研究（8）

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  • Origins and Distributions : A Study of Fermented Aquatic Products (8)
  • 魚醤の起源と伝播(魚の発酵製品の研究-8-)
  • ギョショウ ノ キゲン ト デンパ サ

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This paper, the final contribution to the project on fermentedaquatic products in Asia, examines the origins and geographicaldistribution of the products. Papers published earlier have dealtwith the distribution and types of products in Southeast Asia[ISHIGE and RUDDLE 1987], the ecology of the marine andfreshwater fish species involved [RUDDLE 1986, 1987], acultural interpretation of the chemical analysis of the products[MIZUTANI et al. 1988], a linguistic interpretation of the nomenclatureof the products [ISHIGE and SAKIYAMA 1988], andnarezushi [ISHIGE 1987].The fermented products discussed in this paper originatefrom the combination of fish and other aquatic organisms withsalt, which prevents putrification and by enzymic action breaksdown the protein to produce a free amino acid that imparts thecharacteristic umami taste to fermented products. Food preservedin this way can be eaten raw or can be used as a condiment.The same phenomenon can be observed with salted fish products,but the difference is that those described here are intentionallyfermented. Thus the products known as guedj, momoni, lafi, andloosra, of West and Central Africa, shidal (Assam), nya-sode(Bhutan), jadi (Sri Lanka), and Kisrayaruiba (Siberia), do not fitinto the category of intentionally fermented products discussedhere.On the other hand, the liquamen or garam of Imperial Romewas intentionally fermented and is of the same type as the Asianfermented fish products.However, there is no evidence to support the assertion thatthe fish sauce of Asia originated by diffusion from the MediterraneanBasin, and the origins of these geographically distinctgroups appear to be different.In both Southeast and Northeast Asia fermented fish productsare associated with a monsoonal climatic regime, which ischaracterized by a distinct seasonality. All the species used toproduce fermented products share the characteristic of beingseasonally available in abundance, of being easily caught inshallow, inshore waters (or in freshwaters), of being small insize, relatively inexpensive and of having few alternative uses.The original or prototypical fermented fish product fromwhich all others arose appears to have been shiokara , whichresults when fish (or other species) are mixed with salt andpreserved for a long period.In continental Southeast Asia, apart from the nuoc-mam ofVietnam and shrimp paste produced in coastal areas, all fermentedfish products were prepared from freshwater speciesprior to the 20th-century. Ricefield fishing also developedin this part of continental Southeast Asia, and the preparation ofnarezushi seems to have developed parallel with the rise of irrigatedrice cultivation in the Mekong Basin. Other traditional fermentedfish products also developed in Northeast Thailand, Laos andthe ancient Mon-Khmer Zone, which seems to have been theprobable center from which both ricefield fisheries and thepreparation of fermented fish products originated and laterdiffused. On the other hand, fermented shrimp paste seems tohave had its origins in coastal continental Southeast Asia, and tohave diffused southwards to the Malay Peninsula and to Indonesia.Fermented fish products made from marine species predominatein Japan, Korea and the Philippines, and both freshwaterand marine species were fermented in historical China.However, there is no evidence to suggest either the interrelationshipsbetween Southeast and Northeast Asia or the routes ofdiffusion (assuming that the products did not develop independentlyin each locality).Apart from the genealogical relationships among the variousproducts, those made from freshwater species coincide mainlywith the zone of irrigated rice cultivation. In Asia this is a zonelacking in pastoral traditions and where fermented productshave traditionally been consumed. In the zone of fermented fish products there is documentaryevidencc from China, from the first millennium B.C., whichshows that such products were made not only with salt but alsowith koji (a fermentation starter). In China, at about the timeof Christ, boiled or steamed beans and other vegetable items wereused in lieu of fish in fermented products. From these theancestral forms of fermented soy bean paste and soy saucedeveloped in Northeast Asia. With the development of fermented soy bean products,Northeast Asia gradually became a zone in which condimentsbased on soy beans were consumed. Although some fermentedaquatic products are still consumed in Japan and Korea, in globalterms Northeast Asia is a region of fermented soy bean products,On the other hand, Southeast Asia remains the zone of fermentedfish products. Nevertheless, it should be noted that the culinaryusage of both groups of products is simiIar, and that since thewmami taste imparted by free amino acids is predominant in bothfermented fish and fermented soy bean products, it is the principalflavor in the cuisines of both Southeast and Northeast Asia.

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