B331 非線形水面重力波間のエネルギー輸送に対する Hasselmann 理論に関する数値的研究

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  • Numerical Study on Hasselmann's Theory for the Nonlinear Energy Transfer between Surface Gravity Waves

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Temporal evolution of nonlinear wave fields consisting of more than two millions of trains of surface gravity waves is studied by direct numerical simulation. The evolution of the nonlinear wave field has been followed numerically by a quite efficient method called 'the higher-order spectral method'. The simulation takes account of all the nonlinear interactions among waves up to the four-wave processes, irrespective of resonant or off-resonant. The energy transfer function is evaluated from the rate of change of the spectrum for the JONSWAP and the Pierson-Moskowitz spectra, and compared with Hasselmann's theory. The energy transfer function thus obtained shows satisfactory agreement with Hasselmann's theory as far as the qualitative pattern is concerned. However there is a large quantitative discrepancy between the numerical result and the theory, and the reason of this discrepancy has not been resolved yet.

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