セミフレアスカートの快適性と形状に及ぼす裏地の影響 Effects of the Lining on Comfort and Configuration of Semi-Flared Skirt

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Abstract

セミフレアスカートにおける裏地の効果について,着用評価とスカートの裾線形状から追究した.3種の裏地(キュプラ,差別化ポリエステル,ポリエステル一般裏地)に,2種の異なるパターン(スカートと同型でフレア状に裁断したものと脇スリット入りのストレートな形状のもの)を組み合わせた6枚のスカートについてテストした.13人の女子学生が着用評価を行った結果,フレア形状の裏地をつけたスカートは快適と感じられ,中でも動作性に優れていた.また,キュプラ裏地のものは肌ざわりにおいて他より優れていた.動作分析法により,マネキンに着せたスカートの裾線の形状を静的・動的状態で観察した.静的状態においてフレア形状の裏地のスカートの裾面積は大きく,かつ裾線形状は左右対称であった.スカートの動きの観察から,フレア形状の裏地のスカートは裾面積および裾の移動距離が大きかった.また,フレア形状の裏地のスカートでは表地と裏地の間隙が少なく,一体となって動く様子が捉えられておりこのことも動作性を高める要因と考えられる.キュプラ裏地のものは裾面積が小さく広がりの少ない形状を呈したが,もっとも移動量が多く躍動感のある動きを示していた.このことは裏地のかたさと動的振動係数とかかわると推察される.これらのことから,スカートの快適性と形状は裏地のパターンと種類の両方から影響を受けることが明らかとなった.

The effects of the lining on semi-flared skirts were investigated for wearing evaluation and observation of the hemline. We tested six skirts with two different types of lining cutting patterns combined with three kinds of conventional lining fabrics (cupro, special polyester with a characteristic softness, and regular polyester). The first pattern was a flared pattern having the same contour as the outer fabric (<I>i.e.</I> flared pattern), and the second was of a straight contour with slits on each side (<I>i.e.</I> straight pattern). Thirteen female university students tested and evaluated the comfort of each skirt. The test results showed that skirts with the flared pattern were more comfortable than those with the straight pattern, especially in terms of easiness of body movement. Also, cupro lining ranked higher than other linings in the tactile sensation on the skin. Using the motion analysis method, we observed the hemlines of the outer fabrics and the lining fabrics of the skirts worn on a mannequin, in static and dynamic states. The hemline area of skirts in static state was larger and symmetric in flared linings. The hemline area and hemline travel distance were larger, while space between outer and lining fabrics was smaller in dynamic state in skirts with flared linings than with straight linings. The two fabrics were found to move together in skirts with flared linings, the fact that can be suggested as the reason for more functional mobility. Cupro linings covered smaller hemline areas, but exhibited the most travel ditance and movement with great dynamism. We consider this to be related to the bending and shearing properties of the linings. These results imply that both lining patterns and physical properties of the lining fabrics influence the silhouette as well as comfort.

Journal

  • Journal of Home Economics of Japan

    Journal of Home Economics of Japan 58(3), 139-146, 2007-03-15

    The Japan Society of Home Economics

References:  7

Codes

  • NII Article ID (NAID)
    110006242382
  • NII NACSIS-CAT ID (NCID)
    AN10040097
  • Text Lang
    ENG
  • Article Type
    ART
  • ISSN
    09135227
  • NDL Article ID
    8693123
  • NDL Source Classification
    ZE16(社会・労働--家事・家政--学術誌)
  • NDL Call No.
    Z6-113
  • Data Source
    CJP  NDL  NII-ELS  J-STAGE  NDL-Digital 
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