『男色大鑑』にみる男性服飾の表現 : 若衆の振袖を中心に [in Japanese] Expressions of Fashionable Dress in Ihara Saikaku's Nanshoku Okagami : The Fluttering Sleeves of Young Males [in Japanese]
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This article analyzes garments worn by young males depicted in Ihara Saikaku's 1687 publication entitled Great Mirror of Male Love, or Nanshoku Okagami. Saikaku describes garments with long fluttering sleeves, known as furisode, that were worn by young males, such as those who worked as pages in the service of military lords (kosho). Their garments, portrayed as gorgeous (hanayako) and elegant (furyu), represented the cutting edge of fashionable dress of the period. The furisode worn by young males employed in theaters mimicked those worn by young pages; however, their complicated patterns are thought to be specific to actors' garments. Furisode worn by young male actors differed little from that of young women. This study reveals that the wearing of furisode depended not on gender, but rather according to age or social status. On the other hand, the effect of interactions among social classes is apparent. Men described in The Great Mirror of Male Love followed established social norms but through interactions across class boundaries, created their own distinctive mode of beautiful clothing.
Aesthetics 56(4), 41-54, 2006
The Japanese Society for Aesthetics