巨大波浪Freak waveの予測に向けて(波浪・砕波・水表面での気体輸送(2),一般講演)

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  • Toward to Freak Wave Prediction

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Quasi-resonant four-wave interactions may influence the statistical properties of deep water surface gravity waves such as a freak wave. The freak wave prediction method developed by Mori and Janssen (2006) based on the quasiresonant wave theory is compared with Europian Centre for Meidum Range Weather Forecasts wave analysis data. Mori and Janssen (2006) model shows low correlation of kurtosis with the observed wave data, although the observeda data show the significant correlation between H_<max> and kurtosis.

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