沖縄島におけるサンゴ礁海浜の汀線砕波波高に関する推定式 [in Japanese] A Quantitative Prediction for Shore Break Height on Coral Beaches with a Fringing Reef, Okinawa Island [in Japanese]
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Field measurements were carried out on Yomitan coast with a fringing reef in Okinawa Island, Japan to investigate the relationship between the shore break height (H_b), the reef width(W), the wave height (H') and water depth(h) at the reef edge. The ratio of the shore break height to the wave height at the reef edge, H_b/H', which denotes the degree of the reduction of wave height on a reef, was found to decrease with increasing W, and to decrease with decreasing h. This result indicates that the reduction of wave height on a reef is greatly controlled by morphological features of a fringing reef. Using the results of the present study data, an equation connecting H_b and H', h, and W, is derived from the regression analysis as follows: H_b ＝ 111.7 (h/W) H'.
沖縄地理 (15), 1-10, 2015-06
The Okinawa Geographical Society