サンゴ礁海浜の前浜勾配に関する定量的予測 [in Japanese] A Quantitative Prediction of Beach-Face Slopes on Coral Beaches in Okinawa Island [in Japanese]
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Using data on coral beaches in Okinawa Island, a predictive equation for beach-face slope was derived through dimensional analysis. The beach-face slope, tanα, was found to be expressed by tanα =0.07(H_b/ g^<0.5>D^<0.5>T)^-<0.5>, where H_b is the breaker height. T is the wave period. D is the sediment size and g is the acceleration due to gravity.
沖縄地理 (7), 79-84, 2006-12
The Okinawa Geographical Society