工学的応用のための砕波統計量データの再整理

書誌事項

タイトル別名
  • Reanalysis of Breaking Wave Statistics for Engineering Applications

抄録

A review is made on the statistical features of breaking waves in the nearshore waters. The bed slope effect in the breaker index formula by Goda (1973) is reduced in a newly revised formula. The breaker index of regular waves should be treated as a statistical variable with the coefficient of variation ranging from 5% to 14%. The significant wave height rarely exceeds 0.6 times the local water depth. The wave nonlinearity as expressed in the form of skewness and the ratios of one-third and one-tenth highest wave height to the energy-based significant wave height increases toward the middle of surf zone, but it is destroyed by wave breaking process and disappears near the shoreline. Changes of characteristic wave heights across the surf zone are also exhibited.

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詳細情報

  • CRID
    1390001204550856320
  • NII論文ID
    130003808170
  • DOI
    10.2208/proce1989.54.81
  • ISSN
    18848222
    09167897
  • データソース種別
    • JaLC
    • Crossref
    • CiNii Articles
  • 抄録ライセンスフラグ
    使用不可

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