現地波浪の方向スペクトル特性およびピーク周波数を考慮した水面波伝達関数に関する研究

• 泉宮 尊司

  新潟大学工学部建設学科

• 馬場 真宏

  新潟大学大学院自然科学研究科環境システム科学専攻

書誌事項

タイトル別名

• CHARACTERISTIC OF DIRECTIONAL WAVE SPECTRUM AND WAVE TRANSFER FUNCTION IN CONSIDERATION OF SPECTRAL PEAK FREQUENCY

抄録

Directional wave spectra and spreading parameter are measured to investigate properties of wind waves observed in the Sea of Japan. Goda and Suzuki have shown that the peak value of spreading parameter s decreases as the deepwater wave steepness increases based on the observation by Mitsuyasu et al. and Wilson's formula. The values of directional spreading parameter s observed at Oyashirazu Coast faced the Sea of Japan do not decrease in accordance with the relationship proposed by them. It is found that the value of s decrease as the wave height larger than 4m increases.<BR>Transfer function from water surface displacemento wave pressure fluctuation are also evaluated with the field observation data to study the effect of nonlinearity of waves on them and estimate water surface elevation from the wave pressure fluctuation. The values of transfer function in the range of frequency larger then twice the peak frequency decrease rapidly compared to the linear theory. The transfer function measured are formulated and used for estimation of representative wave heights from the wave pressure fluctuation.

収録刊行物

• 水工学論文集

  水工学論文集 49 1333-1338, 2005

  公益社団法人 土木学会

キーワード

• directional spectrum
• directional spreading parameter
• transfer function
• numerical filter

詳細情報

• CRID: 1390282680147053824
• NII論文ID: 130003842057
• DOI: 10.2208/prohe.49.1333
• ISSN: 18849172
• ISSN: 09167374
• データソース種別:
  • JaLC
  • Crossref
  • CiNii Articles
  • KAKEN
• 抄録ライセンスフラグ: 使用不可