確率論的ゆらぎモデルによる長周期波の発生・発達の予測に関する研究

• 泉宮 尊司

  新潟大学

• 金井 誠

  富山市役所

書誌事項

タイトル別名

• Stochastic Forcing Model for the Generation and Evolution of Infragravity waves by Short Gravity Surface Waves

抄録

A stochastic forcing model has been developed to estimate the heights of infragravity waves excited by short gravity surface waves. The model includes a wave equation for infragravity waves with the external force term due to pressure disturbances by short gravity waves. The analytical solution of the wave equation was obtained, and the root-mean-square value of the surface elevation of infragravity waves was estimated. The rms value is proportional to the square root of the spectral moment of -2 order, m_-2, of short gravity waves, which is also proportional to the product of the wave height and the peak wave period or the significant wave period of short gravity waves. The estimated rms heights of infragravity waves are compared with the observed data compiled by NOWPHAS and show good agreements with them.

収録刊行物

• 土木学会論文集Ｂ２（海岸工学）

  土木学会論文集Ｂ２（海岸工学） 65 (1), 221-225, 2009

  公益社団法人 土木学会

キーワード

• 長周期波
• 確率論的ゆらぎモデル
• 発達
• 有義波高

詳細情報

• CRID: 1390282680293264768
• NII論文ID: 130004550337
• DOI: 10.2208/kaigan.65.221
• ISSN: 18838944
• ISSN: 18842399
• 本文言語コード: en
• データソース種別:
  • JaLC
  • Crossref
  • CiNii Articles
• 抄録ライセンスフラグ: 使用不可