砕波段波の陸上遡上予測モデルの開発 Prediction Model of Breaking Wave Run-up
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For investigation of beach processes, it is necessary to consider wave-driven sand transport. Hydrodynamics in the wave run-up area should be estimated accurately in order to predict the beach processes, however, the accuracy of existing numerical models regarding moving shoreline change are insufficient for the prediction of the shear stress and the sediment transport. This study developed theoretical-based moving shoreline model using shallow water equation. The wave run-up heights obtained from numerical results of this model were approximately proportional to the values calculated from Hunt (1959) formula. This theory-based model can simulate the moving shoreline change accurately.
- Journal of Japan Society of Civil Engineers, Ser. B2 (Coastal Engineering)
Journal of Japan Society of Civil Engineers, Ser. B2 (Coastal Engineering) 65(1), 116-120, 2009
Japan Society of Civil Engineers