Freak Waveの発生と気象条件の関係について Freak Waves and Weather Conditions
The kurtosis of the surface elevation, Benjamin-Feir Index (BFI) and directional spread are measures of nonlinear four-wave interactions and freak waves. The dependence of kurtosis, BFI and directional spread under typhoon conditions are examined by numerical simulations and field data. The Value BFI is significantly large in the fourth quadrant of the typhoon while the directional spread is small. The potentially possible area of freak wave occurrence is the fourth quadrant of the typhoon rather than the other quadrants. These parameters of freak waves under the typhoon condition are verified by the field data.
土木学会論文集B2(海岸工学) 66(1), 116-120, 2010