COMPARISONS OF BREAKING WAVE MODELS IN PREDICTIONS OF CURRENT FIELD BASED ON NON-LINEAR DISPERSIVE WAVE MODEL

• TAJIMA Yoshimitsu

  東京大学大学院 工学系研究科

• MOHSIN Siddique

  University of Engineering and Technology, Lahore, Pakistan

Bibliographic Information

Other Title

• 非線形分散波方程式における異なる砕波減衰モデルによる流れ場の推定特性

Abstract

 This paper focuses on difference of breaking wave models especially in terms of their different predictive skills of the current field around the surf zone. Widely-used modified Boussinesq equations were applied to the newly conducted experimental conditions with different breaking wave models, i.e., dispersion type, friction type and surface roller-type models. Predicted osscilating current velocity and depthaveraged undertow velocity were compared to the measured data. Comparions clearly demonstrated the advantages of the surface roller-type model in that the model succsessfully explains the increase of the undertow velocity inside the surf zone. While all the models showed excellent predictive skills of the wave heights, none of these models successfully represent the profiles of near-bottom orbital velocity.

Journal

• Journal of Japan Society of Civil Engineers, Ser. B3 (Ocean Engineering)

  Journal of Japan Society of Civil Engineers, Ser. B3 (Ocean Engineering) 68 (2), I_792-I_797, 2012

  Japan Society of Civil Engineers

Keywords

• surf zone
• undertow
• breaking wave model
• surface roller
• near-bottom orbital current

Details

• CRID: 1390282680330735744
• NII Article ID: 130004961612
• DOI: 10.2208/jscejoe.68.i_792
• ISSN: 21854688
• Text Lang: ja
• Data Source:
  • JaLC
  • Crossref
  • CiNii Articles
  • KAKEN
• Abstract License Flag: Disallowed