Defining dress : dress as object, meaning and identity

Bibliographic Information

Defining dress : dress as object, meaning and identity

edited by Amy de la Haye and Elizabeth Wilson

(Studies in design and material culture)

Manchester University Press, 1999

  • : hbk
  • : pbk

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Includes index

Description and Table of Contents
Volume

: hbk ISBN 9780719053283

Description

This collection of essays brings together many separate but related issues which form the focus of contemporary research into the history of dress. Historically, in Britain at least, investigations of dress were primarily informed by historical and empirical protocols, although the symbolic meaning of dress was explored by anthroplogists and sociologists, who tended to concentrate on either non-Western cultures or British or Western sub-cultures. In recent years these approaches have moved closer together partly as a result of the impact of feminism. The essays reflect this moment in the study of fashion, showing how in the late 1990s garments may be researched as discrete objects, as part of consumer culture, and as components of created meaning which are expressive of personal identity and social belonging.The partial breakdown of the traditional fashion system has made new approaches to the study of what we wear, how it is created and how we recreate ourselves possible.

Table of Contents

  • Dashing amazons: the development of women's riding dress from c.1500-1900
  • wool cloth and gender: an investigation into the gender specific use of woollen cloth in the tailored dress of fashionable British women in the 1865-1855 period
  • renouncing consumption: men, fashion and luxury 1870-1914
  • clothing culture in Edo period Japan
  • that little magic touch: the head tie
  • depictions of dress and regulations concerning dress: the poor Clares and the second order of Saint Dominic in Italy in the late middle ages
  • the Mantua: its evolution and fashionable significance in the 17th and 18th centuries
  • muses and mythology: the representation of classical dress in British 18th century female portraiture
  • dressing for arts sake: Gwen John, the Bon Marche and the spectacle of the women in artists Paris
  • the aesthetics of absence: clothes without people in paintings
  • invisible men?: gay men's dress in Britain 1950-1970
  • looking good: the lesbian gaze and fashion imagery.
Volume

: pbk ISBN 9780719053290

Description

This book discusses the framing of referendum campaigns in the news media, focusing particularly on the case of the 2014 Scottish independence referendum. Using a comprehensive content analysis of print and broadcast coverage as well as in-depth interviews with broadcast journalists and their sources during this campaign, it provides an account of how journalists construct the frames that define their coverage of contested political campaigns. It views the mediation process from the perspective of those who participate directly in it, namely journalists and political communicators. It puts forward an original theoretical model to account for frame building in the context of referendums in Western media systems, using insights from this and from other cases. The book makes an original contribution to the study of media frames during referendums and is key reading for scholars and students interested in journalism, the processes of political communication and the mediation of politics. -- .

Table of Contents

  • Dashing amazons: the development of women's riding dress from c.1500-1900
  • wool cloth and gender: an investigation into the gender specific use of woollen cloth in the tailored dress of fashionable British women in the 1865-1855 period
  • renouncing consumption: men, fashion and luxury 1870-1914
  • clothing culture in Edo period Japan
  • that little magic touch: the head tie
  • depictions of dress and regulations concerning dress: the poor Clares and the second order of Saint Dominic in Italy in the late middle ages
  • the Mantua: its evolution and fashionable significance in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries
  • muses and mythology: the representation of classical dress in British eighteenth century female portraiture
  • dressing for arts sake: Gwen John, the Bon Marche and the spectacle of the women in artists Paris
  • the aesthetics of absence: clothes without people in paintings
  • invisible men?: gay men's dress in Britain 1950-1970
  • looking good: the lesbian gaze and fashion imagery.

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