Producing fashion : commerce, culture, and consumers

Author(s)

• Blaszczyk, Regina Lee

Bibliographic Information

Producing fashion : commerce, culture, and consumers

edited by Regina Lee Blaszczyk

（Hagley perspectives on business and culture）

University of Pennsylvania Press, c2008

• : hbk
• : pbk

Note

Includes bibliographical references and index

Description and Table of Contents

Volume

: pbk ISBN 9780812220667

Description

How has Paris, the world's fashion capital, influenced Milan, New York, and Tokyo? When did the Marlboro Man become a symbol of American masculinity? Why do Americans love to dress down in high-tech Lycra fabrics, while they wax nostalgic for quaint, old-fashioned Victorian cottages? Fashion icons and failures have long captivated the general public, but few scholars have examined the historical role of business and commerce in creating the international market for style goods. Producing Fashion is a groundbreaking collection of original essays that shows how economic institutions in Europe and North America laid the foundation for the global fashion system and sustained it commercially through the mechanisms of advertising, licensing, marketing, publishing, and retailing. The collection reveals how public and private institutions-from government censors in imperial Russia to large corporations in the United States-worked to shape fashion, style, and taste with varying degrees of success. Fourteen contributors draw on original research and fresh insight into the producers of fashion-advertising agents, architects, corporate executives, department stores, designers, editors, government officials, hairdressers, haute couturiers, and Web retailers-in their bid for influence, acclaim, and shoppers' dollars. Producing Fashion looks to the past, revealing the rationale behind style choices, while explaining how the interplay of custom, invented traditions, and sales imperatives continue to drive innovation in the fashion industries.

Table of Contents

Chapter 1. Rethinking Fashion -Regina Lee Blaszczyk PART I. ORGANIZING THE FASHION TRADES Chapter 2. Spreading the Word: The Development of the Russian Fashion Press -Christine Ruane Chapter 3. Accessorizing, Italian Style: Creating a Market for Milan's Fashion Merchandise -Elisabetta Merlo, Francesca Polese Chapter 4. In the Shadow of Paris? French Haute Couture and Belgian Fashion Between the Wars -Veronique Pouillard Chapter 5. Licensing Practices at Maison Christian Dior -Tomoko Okawa PART II. INVENTING FASHIONS, PROMOTING STYLES Chapter 6. The Wiener Werkst tte and the Reform Impulse -Heather Hess Chapter 7. American Fashions for American Women: The Rise and Fall of Fashion Nationalism -Marlis Schweitzer Chapter 8. Coiffing Vanity: Advertising Celluloid Toilet Sets in 1920s America -Ariel Beaujot PART III. SHAPING BODIES, BUILDING BRANDS Chapter 9. California Casual: Lifestyle Marketing and Men's Leisurewear, 1930-1960 -William R. Scott Chapter 10. Marlboro Men: Outsider Masculinities and Commercial Modeling in Postwar America -Elspeth H. Brown Chapter 11. The Body and the Brand: How Lycra Shaped America -Kaori O'Connor PART IV. CUSTOMER REACTIONS, CONSUMER ADAPTATIONS Chapter 12. French Hairstyles and the Elusive Consumer -Steve Zdatny Chapter 13. Ripping Up the Uniform Approach: Hungarian Women Piece Together a New Communist Fashion -Katalin Medvedev Chapter 14. Why the Old-Fashioned Is in Fashion in American Houses -Susan J. Matt Notes List of Contributors Index Acknowledgments

Volume

: hbk ISBN 9780812240375

Description

How has Paris, the world's fashion capital, influenced Milan, New York, and Tokyo? When did the Marlboro Man become a symbol of American masculinity? Why do Americans love to dress down in high-tech Lycra fabrics, while they wax nostalgic for quaint, old-fashioned Victorian cottages? Fashion icons and failures have long captivated the general public, but few scholars have examined the historical role of business and commerce in creating the international market for style goods. Producing Fashion is a groundbreaking collection of original essays that shows how economic institutions in Europe and North America laid the foundation for the global fashion system and sustained it commercially through the mechanisms of advertising, licensing, marketing, publishing, and retailing. The collection reveals how public and private institutions-from government censors in imperial Russia to large corporations in the United States-worked to shape fashion, style, and taste with varying degrees of success. Fourteen contributors draw on original research and fresh insight into the producers of fashion-advertising agents, architects, corporate executives, department stores, designers, editors, government officials, hairdressers, haute couturiers, and Web retailers-in their bid for influence, acclaim, and shoppers' dollars. Producing Fashion looks to the past, revealing the rationale behind style choices, while explaining how the interplay of custom, invented traditions, and sales imperatives continue to drive innovation in the fashion industries.

Table of Contents

Chapter 1. Rethinking Fashion -Regina Lee Blaszczyk PART I. ORGANIZING THE FASHION TRADES Chapter 2. Spreading the Word: The Development of the Russian Fashion Press -Christine Ruane Chapter 3. Accessorizing, Italian Style: Creating a Market for Milan's Fashion Merchandise -Elisabetta Merlo, Francesca Polese Chapter 4. In the Shadow of Paris? French Haute Couture and Belgian Fashion Between the Wars -Veronique Pouillard Chapter 5. Licensing Practices at Maison Christian Dior -Tomoko Okawa PART II. INVENTING FASHIONS, PROMOTING STYLES Chapter 6. The Wiener Werkst tte and the Reform Impulse -Heather Hess Chapter 7. American Fashions for American Women: The Rise and Fall of Fashion Nationalism -Marlis Schweitzer Chapter 8. Coiffing Vanity: Advertising Celluloid Toilet Sets in 1920s America -Ariel Beaujot PART III. SHAPING BODIES, BUILDING BRANDS Chapter 9. California Casual: Lifestyle Marketing and Men's Leisurewear, 1930-1960 -William R. Scott Chapter 10. Marlboro Men: Outsider Masculinities and Commercial Modeling in Postwar America -Elspeth H. Brown Chapter 11. The Body and the Brand: How Lycra Shaped America -Kaori O'Connor PART IV. CUSTOMER REACTIONS, CONSUMER ADAPTATIONS Chapter 12. French Hairstyles and the Elusive Consumer -Steve Zdatny Chapter 13. Ripping Up the Uniform Approach: Hungarian Women Piece Together a New Communist Fashion -Katalin Medvedev Chapter 14. Why the Old-Fashioned Is in Fashion in American Houses -Susan J. Matt Notes List of Contributors Index Acknowledgments

by "Nielsen BookData"

• NCID: BA84651049
• ISBN:
  • 9780812240375
  • 9780812220667
• Country Code: us
• Title Language Code: eng
• Text Language Code: eng
• Place of Publication: Philadelphia
• Pages/Volumes: vii, 363 p.
• Size: 24 cm
• Classification:
  • LCC : TT497
  • DC22 : 746.9/2
• Subject Headings:
  • LCSH : Fashion design -- 20th century -- History
  • LCSH : Fashion merchandising -- 20th century -- History
  • LCSH : Consumers' preferences -- 20th century -- History
  • LCSH : Marketing -- Management -- 20th century -- History
  • LCSH : Product management -- 20th century -- History
• Parent Bibliography ID:
  • BA51539779