The American look : fashion, sportswear and the image of women in 1930s and 1940s New York

著者

    • Arnold, Rebecca

書誌事項

The American look : fashion, sportswear and the image of women in 1930s and 1940s New York

Rebecca Arnold

I.B. Tauris, 2009

  • : hb
  • : pb

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注記

Bibliography: p. 211-230

Includes index

内容説明・目次

内容説明

From the end of the 1930s through the 1940s, the New York fashion industry came into its own. Sportswear, which had evolved from its sporting origins to include simple casual wear for town and country, travel and leisure, was at the centre of this shift. Sportwear provided busy career women, college girls and housewives with clothes that could be worn on all occasions.Drawing on a wonderful array of sources, from fashion magazines to department store records, this book is the rich and absorbing narrative and analysis of how New York sportswear evolved to become the definitive American style and how a modern fashion aesthetic was born. The story that unfolds reveals, with the aid of some wonderful illustrations, how New York's emergent style became dynamic and modern, like the city itself, expressive of the American ideal of athletic, long-limbed women; and how it tapped into both metropolitan Americanness and the America of wide-open spaces.It explores the designers, such as Claire McCardell, Clare Potter and Tina Leser, themselves embodiments of the modern, active woman, and how they gave middle class American women New York sportswear as an alternative to Parisian-inspired designs. It looks for the first time at how its style connected not just to ideals of patriotism and democracy, but to current notions of cleanliness and hygiene, and for example, to 1930s theories of body image, and contemporary dance.

目次

Contents 3 List of Illustrations 4 Acknowledgements 16 Introduction 17 Chapter One: New York and the Evolution of Sportswear New York City 61 Sportswear 84 Modern Sportswear Aesthetic I 102 Chapter Two: American Body Culture Body Image/Body Culture 119 Health and Hygiene 132 Exercise and Dance 147 Sports Body 164 Chapter Three: Sportswear and the New York Fashion Industry During the Depression Effects of the Depression 189 Career Women 207 Fashion Group 226 Chapter Four: Sportswear's Promotion During the 1930s New York Department Stores 240 Fashion Media 259 The Monastic Dress and the Sportswear Promotion in the late 1930s 279 Chapter Five: Sportswear and the New York Fashion Industry During the Second World War Effects of the Second World War 298 Sportswear Design and Representation 222 Modern Sportswear Aesthetic II 237 Chapter Six: The American Look and the Rise of the Designer The American Look 372 New York Sportswear Designers and Consumerism 394 The Woman of Fashion 1947 414 Conclusion 431 Bibliography 456 Index

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