CiNii 図書 - Pashmina : the kashmir shawl and beyond

The classic Kashmir shawl was the exquisite product of consummate skill and artistry applied to one of the world's most delicate fibres. It was an object of desire for Mughal emperors and Sikh maharajas, Iranian nobles, French empresses, Russian and British aristocrats and eventually for the prosperous 19th-century bourgeoisie on both sides of the Atlantic. It has left a permanent imprint on the aesthetic sensibility of the modern world in the so called paisley, derived from a motif developed in the ateliers of Kashmir's shawl designers. This authoritative study introduces the Kashmir shawl as a cultural artefact with a known history spanning four centuries, and a geographical reference from Tibet to the United States. The authors' original research lays many persistent myths to rest. Monisha Ahmed provides the first authentic account, based on years in the field, of the production of the raw material, pashm or "cashmere". Janet Rizvi shows how the manufacturing technique of the shawl is rooted in skills indigenous to Kashmir's villages, and invites the reader's sympathy with the weavers, the poorest and most exploited section of Kashmiri society, whose skilled fingers created these dazzling textiles. Separate chapters deal with technique and design, the nature and use of the shawl in Mughal India, and the industry in the 19th century. Shawls were traded to Iran and the Ottoman Empire long before they were discovered by Western trendsetters. Finally, Rizvi documents the recent revival in Kashmir of ancient near-moribund skills. Lavishly illustrated and accessibly written, this book has much to offer textile scholars, and those interested in the history of Kashmir, or of India's material culture or its pre-modern trade. It will also delight anyone who has ever owned or admired a shawl from Kashmir. This updated edition documents a decade's developments in the pashmina and cashmere industries. An important new feature is a chart tabulating the evolution of shawl design according to period.

Preface and Acknowledgements Maps Introduction "A Felicitous Conjunction" Part 1 THE FIBRE Chapter 1 Pashm and Other Animal Fibres Toosh and the Tibetan Antelope Chapter 2 Changra and Changpa: The Goats and Their Herders Monisha Ahmed Chapter 3 From Changthang to Srinagar: The Pashm Trade The Trade in History The Contemporary Trade Monisha Ahmed Part 2 THE TEXTILE Chapter 4 Spinners, Weavers, and Needleworkers Assembled and Recycled Shawls Chapter 5 Design and Designers Part 3 THE HISTORY Chapter 6 Early History: Conjecture and Speculation Chapter 7 The Mughal Period Chapter 8 The Iran Connection: The Termeh Chapter 9 The Business in the 19th Century Shawls in the Punjab Part 4 BY LAND AND SEA Chapter 10 The Kashmir Shawl in India Chapter 11 The Kashmir Shawl in Iran, West Asia, and Russia Chapter 12 Shawls in the West Part 5 CASHMERE AND KASHMIR Chapter 13 Beyond the Shawl: Pashmina Becomes Cashmere The West Discovers the Fibre Cashmere: A Global Product Never out of Fashion: Cashmere Worldwide Monisha Ahmed Chapter 14 Meanwhile, Back in the Valley Appendix I Update 2008-2017 Appendix II Myths, Misconceptions, and Oddities Appendix III Terminology and Glossary Appendix IV Styles, Designs, and Dates

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Pashmina : the kashmir shawl and beyond

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