Clothing the past : surviving garments from early medieval to early modern western Europe

書誌事項

Clothing the past : surviving garments from early medieval to early modern western Europe

by Elizabeth Coatsworth, Gale R. Owen-Crocker

Brill, c2018

大学図書館所蔵 件 / 3

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注記

Includes bibliographical references and index

内容説明・目次

内容説明

An astonishing number of medieval garments survive, more-or-less complete. Here the authors present 100 items, ranging from homely to princely. The book's wide-ranging introduction discusses the circumstances in which garments have survived to the present; sets and collections; constructional and decorative techniques; iconography; inscriptions on garments; style and fashion. Detailed descriptions and discussions explain technique and ornament, investigate alleged associations with famous people (many of them spurious) and demonstrate, even when there are no known associations, how a garment may reveal its own biography: a story that can include repair, remaking, recycling; burial, resurrection and veneration; accidental loss or deliberate deposition. The authors both have many publications in the field of medieval studies, including previous collaborations on medieval textiles such as Medieval Textiles of the British Isles AD 450-1100: an Annotated Bibliography (2007), the Encyclopedia of Medieval Dress and Textiles of the British Isles (2012) and online bibliographies.

目次

  • Preface List of Illustrations The Authors Note on Measurements General Introduction Origins of the Study Scope of the Study Circumstance of Survival of Complete (or Almost Complete) Garments Life after Life/Afterlife Sets and Collections of Garments Weaves and Other Constructional Techniques
  • Non-Textile Materials
  • Embroidered Decoration Inscriptions Iconography Every-day Wear Style and Fashion A Final Word 1 Headgear: Hat, Cap, Hood, Mitre Introduction 1.1 Orkney Hood 1.2 Bocksten Hood 1.3 York Silk Hood or Cap 1.4 Cap of St Birgitta 1.5 Headdress from Dokkum-Berg Sion 1.6 Little Sampford Hat 1.7 Birette of Prince Fernando de la Cerda 1.8 Composite Mitre from Salzburg 1.9 Mitre with the Martyrdoms of St Thomas Becket and St Stephen 1.10 Jewelled Mitre of William of Wykeham 2 Outer Garments: Copes, Cloaks and Mantles Introduction 2.1 'Star Mantle' of Emperor Henry II 2.2 'Coronation Mantle' of King Stephen of Hungary 2.3 Mantle of King Roger II of Sicily 2.4 Mantle of Philip of Swabia 2.5 Mantle of Emperor Otto IV 2.6 Mantle of Prince Fernando de la Cerda 2.7 Blue Mantle of St Kunigunde 2.8 Syon Cope 2.9 Hildesheim Cope 2.10 Butler-Bowdon Cope 3 The Priestly Outer Garment: Chasuble Introduction 3.1 Bell Chasuble Attributed to St Willigilis 3.2 Bressanone (Brixen) Chasuble 3.3 Castel Sant'Elia Chasuble as Reliquary 3.4 Clare Chasuble 3.5 Melk Chasuble 3.6 Striped Egyptian Silk Chasuble 3.7 Erpingham Chasuble 3.8 Italian Voided Velvet Chasuble 3.9 Blue Wool Chasuble with Applied Embroidered Cross 3.10 Fiddleback Chasuble from Munich 4 Body Garments of Wool and Linen: Tunic, Shirt, Alb Introduction 4.1 Bocksten Tunic 4.2 Greenland Gown with Short Sleeves 4.3 Greenland Gown with Buttoned Sleeves 4.4 Cowl of St Francis of Assisi 4.5 Shirt of St Louis 4.6 Alb Attributed to St Thomas Becket 4.7 Alb Attributed to St Bernulph of Utrecht 4.8 Embroidered Alb with Embroidered Apparels in Cologne 4.9 Alb with Embroidered Apparels in Munich 4.10 Lucera Alb with Embroidered Apparels 5 Rich Body Garments: Tunic, Gown, Overgown, Dalmatic and Tunicle Introduction 5.1 Saya Encordata of Eleanor of Castile, Queen of Aragon 5.2 Pellote of Eleanor of Castile, Queen of Aragon 5.3 Striped Pellote of Don Fernando 5.4 Saya Encordata of Prince Fernando de La Cerda 5.5 'Golden Gown' of Queen Margaret 5.6 Dalmatic of St Ulrich 5.7 Mi-parti Dalmatic 5.8 Goess Dalmatic 5.9 Tunicle of Pere d'Urg 5.10 'Eagle Dalmatic' of the Holy Roman Empire 6 Upper Body and Front Fastening Garments: Undergarment, Padded Garment, Coat-Like Garment Introduction 6.1 Bodice or Brassiere from Lengberg Castle, Nikolsdorf 6.2 Auqueton of the Blessed Isabelle of France 6.3 Rationale from Regensberg 6.4 Greenland Buttoned and Collared Gown 6.5 Rothwell Jack 6.6 Jupon or Coat-Armour of the Black Prince 6.7 Pourpoint of Charles of Blois 6.8 Pourpoint of Charles VI of France 6.9 Guibbone of Don Garcia de'Medici 6.10 Guibbone of Duke Cosimo I de'Medici 7 Loin and Leg Coverings: Underpants, Hose, Sock, Buskin Introduction 7.1 Underpants from Lengberg Castle, Nikolsdorf 7.2 Bocksten Hose 7.3 Greenland Stocking 7.4 Garter from London 7.5 Sock from York 7.6 Sock from Uppsala 7.7 Buskins Attributed to St Germanus 7.8 Buskins of Pope Clement II 7.9 Buskins Attributed to St Dizier (Desiderius) 7.10 Buskins of Archbishop Hubert Walter 8 Minor Vestments: Stole, Maniple, Amice, Pallium, Ecclesiastical Girdle, Humeral Veil Introduction 8.1 Belt of Ailbecunda 8.2 Belt of Witgar 8.3 Pallium with Embroidered Chi-Rho Emblem Associated with St Caesarius of Arles and Later Silk Casing 8.4 Pallium and Casing 'aux Lievres' of Saint Caesarius of Arles 8.5 Matching Stole and Maniple from the Tomb of St Cuthbert 8.6 Maniple of St Ulrich 8.7 Heraldic Stole 8.8 Humeral Veil (?) from Maaseik, known as the Velamen of St Harlindis 8.9 Amice from Munich 8.10 Amice from Cologne 9 Footwear: Shoe, Boot, Slipper, Patten Introduction 9.1 Pair of Shoes from Oseberg 9.2 Shoe Mounted on a Bone Skate, from York 9.3 London Shoe with Drawstring and Long Toe 9.4 Embroidered Shoe from Bryggen, Bergen 9.5 London Poulaine 9.6 London Patten 9.7 Boots from a Bog Burial Near Peiting 9.8 Shoes of St Germanus 9.9 Shoe Attributed to St Dizier (Desiderius) 9.10 Shoes of Archbishop Hubert Walter 10 Accessories: Mitten, Glove, Secular Belt, Possible Headdress Decoration or Cloak Ties Introduction 10.1 Icelandic Naalbinding Mitten 10.2 Linked Woven Mittens from Iceland 10.3 Episcopal Gloves (St Sabinus Gloves) from Canosa 10.4 Bressanone (Brixen) Episcopal Gloves 10.5 Episcopal Gloves of William Warham 10.6 Reliquary Gloves of Blessed Christina von Stommeln 10.7 Heraldic Girdle of Fernando de la Cerda 10.8 Girdle of Philip of Swabia 10.9 Enamelled Girdle Associated with William of Wykeham 10.10 Possible Headband Decoration or Cloak Tie from the Tomb of St Cuthbert Glossary Index

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