Waves in oceanic and coastal waters
Author(s)
Bibliographic Information
Waves in oceanic and coastal waters
（Paperback re-issue）
Cambridge University Press, 2009, c2007
- : pbk
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Note
"This digitally printed version 2009"--T.p. verso
Includes bibliographical references (p. 347-378) and index
Description and Table of Contents
Description
Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.
Table of Contents
- 1. Introduction
- 2. Observation techniques
- 3. Description of ocean waves
- 4. Statistics
- 5. Linear wave theory (oceanic waters)
- 6. Waves in oceanic waters
- 7. Linear wave theory (coastal waters)
- 8. Waves in coastal waters
- 9. The SWAN wave model
- Appendices
- References
- Index.
by "Nielsen BookData"
