CiNii Books - A cultural history of Western fashion : from haute couture to virtual couture

Just as the clothes we wear can communicate our personality and how we want to be perceived, so fashion can reflect the politics and preoccupations of the society that produced it. A Cultural History of Western Fashion guides you through the relationships between haute couture and ready-to-wear designer fashions, popular culture, big business, high-tech production, as well as traditional and social media. Exploring fashion's interdisciplinary nature, English and Munroe also highlight the parallel evolution of clothing design and the other visual arts over the last 150 years. This new edition includes expanded coverage of the build up to the First World War and brings this classic text up to date. There is also a new chapter on smart textiles and technology, exploring the work of Hussein Chalayan and Iris Van Herpen among others, and expanded coverage of the role of sustainability in the contemporary fashion industry, including biosynthetic textile production and Stella McCartney's use of vegan leather.

Table of Contents

Introduction 1.The Commercialization of Fashion Dress and Society in Europe Before the Twentieth Century Social Implications of Dress The Rise of Haute Couture Charles Frederick Worth The Rise of Consumerism The Social Equalizer of the Department Store 2.The Artistry of Fashion Artist-Led Workshops Haute Couture at the Turn of the Twentieth Century Paul Poiret: King of Fashion The Goddess Silhouettes of Vionnet and Fortuny Sonia Delaunay: Simultaneous Contrast of Colours Elsa Schiaparelli: Surrealism in Fashion 3.The Democratization of Fashion Changes in Commerce and Social Structure The Art of Fashion Advertising Flooding the American Market: Reproductions and Fakes Coco Chanel: Pauvrete De Luxe Jean Patou: Style meets Scandal Fashion and Functionalist Theory Stepanova and Popova: Russian Constructivism Dressing Thousands: The Birth of Pret-A-Porter 4.The Americanization of Fashion Slop Shops, Sweatshops, and Factory Work Fit and Function Piracy in Fashion American Couture The 'American Look' in Ready-to-Wear Changes in Menswear: Shirts, Jeans, and Suits Fashion in Film: Costume Designer as Couturier Fashion as Sociopolitical Statement: Zoot Suits 5.The Popularization of Fashion Haute Couture Following the Second World War Christobal Balenciaga Christian Dior Yves Saint Laurent Andre Courreges Pierre Cardin Clothing and Popular Culture The Swinging '60s in London Mary Quant Alternative Fashion Zandra Rhodes Laura Ashley 6.The Postmodernization of Fashion Postmodernism in Fashion and Art The Rejection of Fashion Vivienne Westwood: Anarchy as Inspiration Fashion and Music Anti-Fashion as Feminism Japanese Conceptual Fashion: Miyake, Yamamoto and Kawakubo Redefining Popular Culture Through Heritage Contextualization 7.The Deviance of Fashion Franco Moschino Viktor & Rolf Martin Margiela Alexander McQueen Harajuku Street Fashion Fashion Imagery and Notions of Gender Construction The Reinvention of Menswear 8.The Lifestyle of Fashion American Sportswear Designers Ralph Lauren Calvin Klein Donna Karan Redefining Womenswear: Power Dressing Fashion as Ideological Billboard Street Style on the Catwalk 9.The Corporatization of Fashion Global Conglomerates LVMH: The Super Syndicate Luxury Heritage Branding The Designer as Product Fashion as Philanthropy and Installation Perfume: A License to Make Money The Death of Haute Couture? Counterfeit Chic Ecommerce and Online Shopping 10.The Sustainability of Fashion The Origins of Disposable Fashion Industry Issues: Waste, Pollution, and Labour Sustainable Alternatives Green is the New Black Vintage Clothing as Recycling Other Sustainable Approaches Ethical Concerns 11.The Digitization of Fashion Virtual Couture Technology in Fashion: A brief history Fashion and Technology in the 21st Century Hussein Chalayan Iris van Herpen Fashion as Future and Fantasy Representation and Inclusivity in Fashion Conclusion Notes Glossary Bibliography

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A cultural history of Western fashion : from haute couture to virtual couture

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