A new history of ''made in Italy'' : fashion and textiles in post-war Italy

著者

    • Savi, Lucia

書誌事項

A new history of ''made in Italy'' : fashion and textiles in post-war Italy

Lucia Savi

Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2023

  • : hb

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注記

Bibliography: p. [205]-223

Index: p. [225]-227

内容説明・目次

内容説明

In the first book to examine the role played by textile manufacturing in the development of fashion in Italy, A New History of 'Made in Italy' investigates Italy's transition from a country of dressmakers, tailors and small-scale couturiers in the early post-Second World War period to a major producer of ready-to-wear fashion in the 1980s. It takes the reader from Italy's first internationally attended fashion show in 1951 to Time magazine's Giorgio Armani April 1982 cover story, which signalled the fashion designer's international arrival, and Milan's presence as the capital of ready-to-wear. Chapters focus for the first time on the material substance of Italian fashion - textile - looking at questions including the importance of manufacturing quality, design innovation, composition, production techniques, commerce and the role of textile on the country's overall fashion system. Through these, Lucia Savi brings to light the importance of synthetic fibres, previously little-known players, such as the carnettisti (a type of textile wholesalers) as well as re-investigating well-known couturiers and designers such as Simonetta, Gianfranco Ferre and Gianni Versace. By looking at how things are made, by whom, and where, this book seeks to unpack the 'Made in Italy' label through a focus on making. Informed by extensive archival materials retrieved from a wide range of sources, it brings together the often-separated disciplines of fashion, textile and design history.

目次

List of Figures Acknowledgments Glossary Introduction Locating Italian Fashion Made in Italy Researching 'Made in Italy' Primary Research Sources The Inside-Out Method Research Parameters Chapter Structure 1. Fibers and the Making of Italian Textiles in the Post-War Period Introduction Italy between Tradition and Modernity Between Couturiers and Manufacturers From Paris to the USA's influence The Fascist Period and the 1930s Fibers and Politics Italian Fashion's Materiality Natural, Artificial and Synthetic Fibers Silk, artificial and synthetic fibers SNIA Viscosa and Fibers Promotion The Legitimization of New Fibers 2. The American Export Market and its Influence on Italian design Introduction Textiles Make Fashion: Italy at Work and Sala Bianca Italian Fashion in Italy at Work Italian Textiles in Italy at Work Sala Bianca Italy and the USA: Export and Domestic Market The Value of Hand Made and Machine Made in Italy and USA Boutique Fashion as Proto Italian Ready-to-Wear The Mechanisms of Copies- Italy and the USA between 'Made in Italy' and Export Made in Italy and Export The Transatlantic Commerce of Italian Couture: Simonetta Case Study Ready-to-Wear versus Couture The Value of Copies 3. The 1960s, a Decade of Metamorphosis in Italian Fashion Introduction Treaty of Rome and Export The Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI) and the Promotion of High Fashion New Ways of Production, with New Products and New Ways of Consumption Industry and Alta Moda Boutique of Ready-to-Wear 4. Fashion meets Industry: The Role of Carnettisti in Domestic and International Markets Carnettisti in Italy The Assortitori Tessuti Novita (Sorter of New Textiles) Distribution of Textiles in the 1960s Carnettisti in CNMI: Towards a Codified Role and Crisis 5. Milan and the Stilisti Introduction Rise of Milan Distretti Industriali (Industrial Districts) The Stilista, the Link between Textile and Fashion Production Stilista and Industrial Production Transition from Carnettista to Stilista 6. Designing for Mass-Production Designing Fashion Literature Review for Fashion Working Drawings Fashion Working Drawing Decoded Paper, Type of Drawing and Inscriptions Style and Aesthetics Textiles Gianfranco Ferre: a Case Study Conclusion Inside Fashion: the Role of Materials and Production Fibers and materials Internationalization Industrialization Bibliography Index

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