Waves on water of variable depth
著者
書誌事項
Waves on water of variable depth
(Lecture notes in physics, 64)
Australian Academy of Science , Springer-Verlag, [1977]
- : Canberra
- : Berlin
- : New York
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注記
"Proceedings of a symposium held under the auspices of the International Union of Theoretical and Applied Mechanics (IUTAM) and the Australian Academy of Science at the Academy in Canberra, 20-23, July 1976--P. 2 of cover
Includes bibliographies
内容説明・目次
目次
Summary.- Some classical water-wave problems in varying depth.- Linear transport methods for long surface waves in canals, bays and oceans.- Diffraction of gravity waves by ray methods.- Experimental studies of wave refraction.- Summary.- Survey of theoretical research into tsunamis and observations of actual tsunamis in Japan.- Numerical simulation of tsunami generation and propagation in the ocean with a real bathymetry.- Local behaviour of tsunamis.- Cylindrical solitary waves.- Summary.- Shoaling waves : Numerical solution of exact equations.- Wave-wave interactions near the shore.- Surf and run-up.- Laboratory study of a stationary oblique plunging breaker for surfboard testing.- On breaking waves.- Summary.- The dynamics of waves on currents over a weakly varying bed.- Finite-amplitude waves on non-uniform currents.- Triple roots and cusped caustics for surface gravity waves.- Summary.- Ondes internes evanescentes a l'infini dans un milieu liquide stratifie en rotation.- The interaction of surface and internal tides with boundary currents.- Along the strait in thirty six days.- Summary.- Difframon of shelf waves by an irregular coast-line.- The non-linear generation of shelf waves.- Resonance of shelf waves near islands.- Nonlinear aspects of shelf waves and mean currents.- Continental shelf waves in the presence of a sheared geostrophic current.- Generation of shelf waves on the East Australian coast by wind stress.- Long waves on the Southern Ocean.
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