Embroidering lives : women's work and skill in the Lucknow embroidery industry

Author(s)

    • Wilkinson-Weber, Clare M.

Bibliographic Information

Embroidering lives : women's work and skill in the Lucknow embroidery industry

Clare M. Wilkinson-Weber

(SUNY series in the anthropology of work)

State University of New York Press, c1999

  • : hardcover
  • : pbk.

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Note

Includes bibliographical references (p. 221-230) and index

Description and Table of Contents

Description

Fusing aesthetic and economic analyses, Embroidering Lives investigates the lives and work of women in the chikan embroidery industry of Lucknow, India. Richly descriptive and accessibly written, the book explores many important issues in women's studies, anthropology, and urban development today—the impact of purdah (seclusion of women) upon women's work and occupational opportunities, the key role of sub-contractors in home-based industry, the need to understand a handicraft from its makers' point of view, and the role of development agencies and programs.

Table of Contents

List of Maps List of Figures List of Tables A Note on Translation Acknowledgments Introduction Methodology Apprenticeship and learning (about) chikan Summary of chapters Chapter 1 Chikan in Historical Context The field setting What is chikan? Stitches and "work" Origins and history of chikan Chapter 2 The Division of Labor The production process Knowledge and the division of labor Productive specialties Machine work Conclusion Chapter 3 Embroiderers in Social Perspective Theorizing women's work Problems with statistics Embroidery and poverty Leisure Religion Caste Purdah Embroidery and the life cycle Chapter 4 Work and. Wages Embroidery wages Work habits Agents and embroiderers Summary Is chikan embroidery "free-time" work? Chapter 5 Skill and Knowledge in Fine Chikan Embroidery Distinguishing the work of a skilled embroiderer Knowledge of chikan Learning chikan Shauq and pareshani Processes of learning The embroiderer's "design": Planning and execution Working for the market: Concessions in skill Chapter 6 Development Schemes and State Patronage Government handicraft policy Government promotion and patronage Award schemes Training schemes Exhibitions Government jobs for skilled embroiderers SEWA Lucknow Embroiderers, skilled embroiderers, the government, and SEWA Lucknow Conclusion Conclusion Appendix Notes Glossary Bibliography Index

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