Chaucer and costume : the secular pilgrims in the General Prologue
著者
書誌事項
Chaucer and costume : the secular pilgrims in the General Prologue
(Chaucer studies, 26)
D.S. Brewer, 2000
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注記
Includes bibliographical references (p. [243]-266) and index
内容説明・目次
内容説明
Literary analysis of the meanings inherent in the costumes of Chaucer's secular pilgrims, and his methods of characterisation through costume.
Clothing and accessories in the middle ages functioned socially as status symbols, counted economically as portable wealth, and signified metaphorically the wearer's spiritual condition. Chaucer's costume descriptions suggest allof these connotations and more. This book presents the first sustained literary analysis of the meanings inherent in the costumes of Chaucer's secular pilgrims, illuminating the extent of their (non)conformity in their dress to fourteenth-century occupational, socio-political, and religious norms. The author discusses the significance of individual fabrics, dyes, accessories, garments, and assembled costumes, and explains technical details and specialist vocabularies for cloth-making, clothing, accessories and armor, drawing on a wealth of contemporary evidence including wills, household inventories, wardrobe accounts, manuscript illuminations and church decoration.
LAURA F. HODGES has a doctorate from Rice University in medieval literature and an undergraduate degree in clothing and textiles from Auburn University; she has taught English literature for many years. As an independent scholar, she specialises in the semiotics of textiles and costume in literature.
目次
- Introduction - Chaucer's costume rhetoric
- costume rhetoric in the Knight's Portrait - Chaucer's every-knight and his "bismotered" "gypon"
- Chaucer's squire - "embrouded was he"
- "mottelee" - for the merchant no one knew
- the Sergeant's misunderstood "medlee cote" and missing accessories
- a hierarchy of blades and bags - the Franklin, Yeoman, Guildsman, Shipman, Miller, Reeve and the Pardoner
- fabric as sign - the Yeoman's "grene" and the Shipman's "faldyng"
- the Wife of Bath's costumes -reading the subtexts
- costume rhetoric for the rising peasant class - the Miller, Knight Manque and the Plowman Miles Christi
- conclusion - Chaucer the "conteor" - clother in good works.
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